A new firearm is like a bright shiny new car and for best performance;

<BODY INFO_W3C="http://visualvision.com/w3c-validation.htm" BACKGROUND="ronsgunrepair_i000000.gif" TEXT="#000000" LINK="#0000FF" VLINK="#FF0000" BGCOLOR="#F0F0F0"> <BASE TARGET="_top"> <DIV class=s2> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'><B>Barrel Preparation </B></FONT></DIV> <DIV class=s2> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>A new firearm is like a bright shiny new car and for best performance; firearms need a break in period too. First we must assume that the barrel is good to begin with. You can?t make a silk purse from a sow?s ear.Upon receiving your new gun don?t work the bolt much even though snapping center fire rifles does them no harm. You can quickly ruin accuracy by adversely affecting the head spacing if the locking lug contact surfaces of the bolt are not well lubricated with grease. Keep these surfaces clean from grit and always greased.The following process will benefit new or newly rebarelled bolt action centerfire gun most. </FONT></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='margin-left: 3mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Free floating barrels typically out shoot those with barrel to stock contact. So during the disassembly I make sure the stock forend does not contact the barrel, if it does I carefully clean that portion up with sandpaper until a sheet of typing paper can pass through the entire barrel channel with the action screws tightened. </FONT></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='margin-left: 3mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>There is no need to brush a new barrel and many shooters will harm a barrel by improper brushing technique. For our process, patches are just fine and the thicker the better. While three part cleaning rods are just fine, I prefer a one piece steel Teflon coated cleaning rod for this job because they don't flex as much. </FONT></DIV> <DIV class=s0 style='margin-left: 3mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>When possible, clean rifles from the chamber end to protect the muzzle from contact with the cleaning rod. That last couple of thousandths of an inch of muzzle called the crown, is a major element of where the fired bullets will go. Don?t screw it up!!!!!! </FONT></DIV> <DIV class=s0 style='margin-left: 3mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>New barrels contain residual machine oil and microscopic particulates. All firearms are test fired at the factory and they don?t have the time to clean each barrel properly. Firing "irons in" machine oils and junk----it?s our job to get it out. Here is how I do it. </FONT></DIV> <DIV class=s0 style='margin-left: 3mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'> </FONT></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>1. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Run a sheet of paper between the stock and barrel and mark with tape on the stock where there is wood to metal contact. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>2. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Do this barrel preparation procedure only with bolt action rifles and disassembled semi-auto handgun barrels. Before mounting a scope (or be careful) remove the barreled action from the stock and remove the bolt. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>3. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Secure in a well-padded vise or in an MTM Maintenance center. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>4. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Run several solvent soaked patches and let set for 10-20 minutes. Don?t combine or mix solvents and brands as they may cause damage to barrels. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>5. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Run 3-6 dry patches one time each through the barrel. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>6. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Repeat steps 4 and 5 about six times. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>7. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Boil a gallon of water. Wrap the receiver with a very thick towel(s) so you can hold when it gets very hot. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>8. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Pad the sink surface with a rag to rest the muzzle on. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>9. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Squirt a good shot of liquid detergent in the chamber, let it go through the barrel and let it set for a minute. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>10. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>With a smaller "dip" pan. Pour about ? gallon of boiling water into the chambered through the barrel (the heat will prevent rusting). </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>11. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Run a couple of patches through the barrel and repeat step 10 again. Boil up another gallon of water. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>12. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Steps 12 and 14 are not for everyone so if you skip them---you have done well. Your gunsmith or retailer will help you get a light abrasive made specifically for gun barrels (use nothing else). JB Bore cleaner is the name of the product. Follow the directions and very carefully--- only patch from the muzzle end (don?t contact the crown with the rod). Use tight fitting patches on a jag (slotted cleaning rod tips won?t work for this step). Run each polishing patch for 10 to 20 times before removing (it gets very black with grime). </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>13. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Do step 4 twice. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>14. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Repeat steps 12 and 13. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>15. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Now do steps 9, 10, and 11. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>16. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Take a patch, spit on it a lot and run it through the barrel (just do it). Then patch it dry. </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='list-style-type:decimal;text-indent: -10mm;margin-left: 13mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <!lisnum>17. <!/lisnum><FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Put in a light gun oil lubricant and patch back and forth a few times and you are finished.  </FONT></LI></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='margin-left: 6mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Also, while it is apart, now is time to get the trigger adjusted by a professional if you wish and for safety sake keep it above 2 ? pounds of hunting rifles. Clean the stock area well and if you want to glass bed it, now if the time for that too. You are finished once the barrel is contact free when the screws are well tightened (reasonably heavy screw pressure is best). When you clean from now on, use only damp solvent patches. If you soak them, excess solvent will follow the action screw threads into the bedding and accuracy will suffer. </FONT></DIV> <DIV class=s11> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>Prior to reassembly you can further protect the barrel and action exterior with carnauba car or furniture wax which has NO abrasives in it. I apply a coating to the exterior of the barrel and the action, let it dry and polish it well. Remember to grease the bolt-locking lug to receiver contact surfaces. </FONT></DIV> <DIV class=s11> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>At the range run a couple of dry patches (see optional trick below) through the barrel and fire three rounds. Run three solvent moistened (remember?) patches through the barrel one time each form chamber to muzzle and follow with one or two dry patches and tire another three shots. Repeat this process for 15-21 rounds (use old ammo. etc). After this the rifle is ready for normal shooting and sight in. </FONT></DIV> <DIV class=s11> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'>"OPTIONAL TRICK": Using automotive brake cleaning (not engine cleaner) prior to firing after cleaning removes every trace of solvents and oil and most carbon contaminates (not copper fouling). After cleaning and prior to shooting, run one or two patches with this on them and follow with a dry patch. Don?t store your guns dry---put on light oil coating. You can remove that prior to shooting, by using the brake cleaner "trick." </FONT></DIV> <DIV class=s2 style='margin-left: 3mm;margin-top: 2mm;margin-bottom: 2mm;'> <FONT style='font-size:12pt;'><B>Any Questions? </B></FONT></DIV>